- Countries visited: 37*
- Borders crossed with moto: 63**
- Times we fell while driving: 5
- Times we fell when on the bike but not driving: 4***
- Injuries: 1 (this does not account for all scrapes)
- Flat tires: 0 !!! we can't believe it ourselves...º
- Tire change: 7 front and 6 back
- Collision with animals that we know of: 7 (6 birds and 1chicken, alas no rooster...)
- Days on the road (excluding little day trips): 305
- Highest altitude reached on the moto: about 5480.5mºº
- Places where we slept: 344
- Longest border crossing: 6 hours going into Argentina and Guatemala
- Shortest border crossing: 20min in the USA
- Days we waited for repairs or parts: about 12 weeks
- Longest drive day (time): 14 hours
- Longest drive day (km): 1040km
- Total driven: 113 631km
*includes Canada
**we counted every time we needed to do some kind of paperwork, which includes going back into the same country a few times (i.e. Argentina)
***don't ask...
ºwe were told that 90% of flat tires happen in the last 10% of a tire's life. Needless to say that we changed our tires on time, but we were also extremely lucky because some of the roads were quite spiky-rocky.
ººofficially in India, it is 5602m high. However, it has been recalculated to 5359m by a team of researchers... So I added both numbers, then divided by 2...

*************************************************************************************************

* Our Atlantic crossing by cargo ship with the company Grimaldi
** Belgium, England, France, Italy, Croatia, Slovenia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria

*********************************************************************************************************************

EACH TOWN/VILLAGE/CITY IN WHICH WE SLEPT
(04/10/2007 to 31/05/2010 or our whole trip)

Wow, do we have enough time on our hands or what?… here’s the proof : a written list of all the places we’ve slept at. We added the name of the hotel when we remembered it, and especially when we liked it. We've seen many more places than that, but couldn't list them all!

Note:

For all motorcycle enthusiasts: It is safe to assume that these places all have secure parking for your motorcycle (for a few of them that didn’t, there was a secure parking close by). The parking spot can vary from a private garage to your bedroom.

Exchange rate: this is the real rate we got when we were there at the time we were in the country.

All is listed in alphabetical order under each country, but the countries are listed in the order we visited.

CANADA

Rate: 1$CAD=1$CAD

• Falcon lake, MB

• Indian Head, SK

• Montreal, QC; a friend's place

• Revelstoke, BC

• Sault Ste-Marie, ON

• Thunder Bay, ON; 20$ per person for a room at Thunder Bay International Hostel. The first hostel in Canada, friendly and welcoming. www.thunderbayhostel.com/

• Toronto, ON; a friend’s place

• Vancouver, BC; Brian's brother

• Waiparous, AB; a friend's place

USA

Rate: 1$CAD=1$USD

• Allegany State Park, NY; 15,75$ for camping

• Amado

• Bakersfield, CA

• Balmorhea State Park, TX; 15$ for camping

• Beaumont, TX

• Benicia, CA; a friend's place

• Black Canyon city, AZ; 23.25$ at KOA campground

• Blanding, UT

• Catalina State Park, AZ; 15$ for camping

• Cannonville, UT; 51.54$ at the only hotel, a very good deal. Comfy beds, quiet, clean and friendly. Beats the KOA next door.

• Chattanooga, TN

• Columbus, TX

• Flagstaff, AZ

• Fortuna, CA

• Fruita, UT; 10$ for camping

• Grand Canyon, AZ; 18$ for camping

• Hueco Tanks State Park, TX; 15$ for camping

• Lake Lurleen State Park, AL; 17,20$ for camping

• Las Vegas, NE; 33.48$ (and more, but cheaper than the KOA next door) at Circus Circus. Reserve on-line.

• Lewiston, PA

• Middleburg, PA; a friend's place

• Moab, UT

• Niagara Falls, NY

• Quail Creek State Park, UT; 13$

• Roanoke, VA

• Rocky Springs in Natchez Trace, MS; free camping!!

• San Antonio, TX

• Shawnee State Park, PA; 14$ for camping

• Valley of Fire State Park, NV; beautiful, 20$

• Woodland, WA

MEXICO

Rate: 1$CAD=10,86pesos

• Barra de Navidad (2007) ; Hotel Posada Pacifico, 250 pesos

• Barra de Neixpa (2007)

• Chiapa de Corzo ; Hotel Los Angeles

  • (2007); 250 pesos

  • (2010); 350 pesos during a busy weekend.

• Comitan ; hotel at the corner of the central plaza, 304 pesos in 2007 and 370 pesos in 2010.

• Cuatro Cienegas (Coahuila) ;

  • 2007: Hotel Mission Marielena, 350 pesos (bargained down from around 500 pesos by Marie-France)

  • 2010: Camping Los Mezquites, 250 pesos

• Luis Moya (2010); 300 pesos at Hotel San Javier, clean, quiet, safe and friendly.

• Mexico D.F. (2007); a friend's place

• Oaxaca (2007&2010); Hostal Santa Isabel, 190 pesos but the friendliness and cleanliness has gone since 2007. Last resort for a cheap place.

• Parras (2010)

• Pie de la Cuesta (2007); it is expensive there but you can try Acapulco for cheaper stays

• Real de Catorce (San Luis Potosi) (2007&2010); Hospedaje Orogarrio, 200 pesos to 450 pesos.

• Sabinas (Coahuila) (2007); El Dorado, 400 pesos

• Saltillo (Coahuila) (2007)

• San Cristobal de las Casas (2007&2010); Hotel Posada San Augustin, 360 pesos in 2007

• San Miguel de Allende (2010)

• San Sebastian del Oeste (2007). Town to avoid but try the cantina to ease your pain.

• Tehuantepec (2010)

• Tequila (2007); Casa Dulce Maria, 300 pesos

• Zacatecas (2007&2010); Hostal Villa Colonial, ask for the room with the kitchen at street level. You can park you bike inside the room. 200 pesos is for a week stay in 2007 during low season.

• Zihuatanejo (2007)

GUATEMALA

Rate:1$CAD=7.37 quetzales

• Antigua (2010), 186 quetzales

• Chiquimula

• Coban (2008)

• El Remate (2008) ; Hotel Mon Ami, 240 quetzales. Nice views.

• Flores (Island of) (2008) ; Hotel Dona Rosa, 150 quetzales. Air-con, family owned.

• Huehuetenango, 130 quetzales

• Lanquin (2008); El Retiro, 120 quetzales. Nice place to relax.

• Quetzaltenango (also named Xela to pronounce Shela)

• Santa Elena (2008) ; avoid sleeping there, go to the island of Flores instead

• Todos Santos Cuchumatan

  • 2008: lived with a family, 45 quetzales/day/person meals included. Very basic.

  • 2010: 200 quetzales at the nicest hotel in town (the one above the women cooperative on a street sloping up from the Plaza de Armas)

EL SALVADOR

Rate:1$CAD=0.96$USD

• Playa El Tunco ; Tortuga Surf Lodge (has a pool!)

  • 2008: 22$ with shared bathroom. The regular price, 25$, was brought down because of long stay and low season. Very clean, friendly and the simple meals are good.

  • 2010: 33$ with private bathroom. Price was lowered because of low season. Still very friendly, quiet, clean and simple good food.

• San Salvador (2008); Villa Florencia, 13$. Family owned, friendly and very safe.

• Santa Ana (2008) ; if you’re stuck you can stay there, otherwise you might want to skip it.

• Suchitoto (2008)

HONDURAS

Rate:1$CAD=18.20 lempiras

• Copan Ruinas (2008) ; Hotel los Gemelos, 180 lempiras. Owned by Senora Mafalda, with a very keen guard dog.

NICARAGUA

Rate:1$CAD=18.80 cordobas

• Chinandega(2008) ; Hotel Cosiguina, 46,57$, after a long day we deserved it!

• Granada ; Hostal Esfinge. Simple, but with parking.

  • 2008: 270 cordobas with bathroom.

  • 2010: 265 codobas with shared bathroom.

• Isla de Ometepe (2008) ; Hotel Finca Playa Venecia, 372 cordobas. Very friendly place, you can bargain in low season.

• Leon (2008); Hotel Europea, 23$. The only one we found with a parking.

COSTA RICA

Rate:1$CAD=493col

• Playa del Coco (2008). You can give it a miss.

• San Isidro de el General (2008&2010).

PANAMA

Rate:1$CAD=0.98$USD

• Boquete (2008); Hostal Refugio del Rio, 10$/person (dorm beds)

• David (2010)

• Panama City (2008)

COLOMBIA

Rate:1$CAD=1738pesos

• Bogota ; Platypus. Lively crowd but seemed to have calmed down between 2007-2010.

  • 2008: 35 000 pesos, shared bathroom.

  • 2010: 31 000 pesos, shared bathroom. Different room in the same house higher up the street.

• Mompos (2010); 40 000 pesos at the Casa Amarilla (next to Santa Barbara church).

• Pasto (2008&2010)

• Popayan (2008&2010)

• Sahagun (2010)

• Salento ; Plantation House

  • 2008: 45 000 pesos with bathroom. In the main house.

  • 2010: 50 000 pesos with bathroom. In the second house.

• San Augustin (2010)

• San Gil (2010); 35 000 at Hotel Santa Cruz del Puente, Calle 10 #10-15, tel 7246000

• Santa Fe Antioquia (2010)

• Tierradentro (2010); 48 000 pesos for the nicest hotel with a pool close to the parc entrance (not in the village).

ECUADOR

Rate:1$CAD=0.96$USD

• Banos(2008). Ok village.

• Cuenca (2008) ; Hostal Naranja, 24,74$ with a small kitchen you can use. Charming and tranquil.

• Ingapirca (2008). Rustic village.

• Macara (2010)

• Otavalo ; Rincon del Viajero. Nice place, hot showers and fire place in the small common room.

  • 2008: 16$ shared bathroom with nice breakfast included.

  • 2010: 24$ with private bathroom. Still a nice and comfy place.

• Triunfo (right before that town) (2010)

• Vilcabamba (2008) ; Hotel Izhcayluma, 28$ with nice breakfast included. Charming village and very nice hotel. They also have dorms (cheaper) and cabanas (more $$).

PERU

Rate:1$CAD=2.73 soles

• Aguas Caliente (2008)

• Arequipa (2008&2010) ; Arequipay backpackers. Has changed address in 2010 so we don't know about parking at the new place but make sur to ask friendly Evelyn. http://www.arequipaybackpackers.com/ . A must see is the monastery, don't forget your camera.

• Barranca (2008). Avoid this town if you can.

• Cusco (2008)

• Huanchaco (2008&2010); Hotel Naylamp, 40 soles in 2008, full in 2010. Nice hotel but don’t eat there.

• Huaraz (2008); Alojamiento Soledad, 50 soles.

• Ica (2010); 45 soles at Gran Hotel on street Bolivar #725

• Km 296 on the Panamericana highway; 50 soles (in 2010) at Hotel la Siesta. Quiet, clean and safe with restaurant not too far. Could be busy during weekends but calm during the week.

• Ollantaytambo (2008); Hotel Las Portadas, 40 soles

• Piura (2008)

• Playa El Chaco (2008); Hostal Santa Maria; 50 soles (varies between 50-80 soles) with simple breakfast included, real hot water and very comfortable beds. If you get stuck in this village (the disaster from the earthquake in 2007 is still showing) at least you have a nice place to stay.

• Puno(2008) ; Kusillo Posada, 50 soles breakfast included.

• Nazca (2008)

• Sangalle (Colca Canyon) (2008)

BOLIVIA
(in 2008)

Rate:1$CAD=6.73 bolivianos

• Copacabana ; La Cupula, 16$ with heating. Nice place to relax.

• La Paz ; Residencial Sucre, 120 bolivianos. Ok place, can park moto inside.

• Potosi

• Uyuni

• Sucre ; Hotel Pachamama, 70 bolivianos.

• Tupiza

ARGENTINA (*prices increase every year)
(in 2008-2009-2010)

Rate:1$CAD=3.2 pesos

• Almafuerte (2009)

• Azul (2009, Dec); 20 pesos per person at La Posta. To find it, ask for La Posta in town.

• Buenos Aires (2008-2009-2010); Dakar Motos, 75 pesos

• Cachi (2010); 20 pesos for a very nice camping. Swimming pool during the season. Very nice village and beautiful scenery between here and Cafayate on Ruta 40, as well as from here to Salta (I think it is the Ruta 33)

• Cafayate ; A must see village for wine lovers. Great scenery close by.

  • (2008) 11 pesos at the Camping (municipal) Loro Huasi. Very noisy. Bar nearby with loud music on weekends.

  • (2010) 50 pesos (80pesos during the high season in January) for room with shared bathroom at the Hospedage (that is how it is called!), you call also camp. Small and very simple but quiet, friendly and family owned. Inquire for the address at the information desk at the main plaza.

• Choele Choel (2008)

• Chos Malal (2010)

• Cordoba (2008)

• Dique Ameghino (2009); 10 pesos for camping. There is apparently a shower (for a small fee).

• El Bolson (2008); Chakra camping, 30 pesos

• El Calafate (2008); municipal camping, 29 pesos

• El Condor (2009, Dec.) for the Horizons Unlimited meeting.

• Esquel (2009); 80 pesos at Casa del Pueblo. Safe parking, friendly (including the cats) but we've seen better showers.

• Gualeguaychu (2008)

• Humahuaca (2008); Hostal la Saltenita (calle Salta#54), 50 pesos.

• Iguazu (2008) ; Americano, 45 pesos. The most expensive camping in the country so far but the cheapest-tranquil option in Iguazu.

• Isla Pavon/Commandante Luis Piedrabuena (2008); camping, 30 pesos

• Junin de los Andes (2010)

• La Falda (2010)

• Lago Espejo (Ruta de los 7 lagos) (2008); camping “libre”, free but without toilets

• Las Grutas (2009)

• Mashwitz (2008-2009); a friend’s

• Mendoza (2008-2009-2010); Hostel Independencia, 75 pesos

• National Parc Ischigualasto (2009); 10 pesos for simple and windy camping. Friendly, and hot showers.

• National Parc Leoncito (2009); camping at no fee. Friendly and hot showers (no fee)

• Obera (2008) ; municipal camping, free. About 6km from Obera (ask in town)

• Pampa de lo Guanacos (2008) ; Los Cedros Residencial, 25 pesos/person, clean, comfortable and friendly. Its on the access road to San Martin (meaning you turn north on that street from the autoroute). Tel: 03731-15500072 or 0385-154977794.

• Perito Moreno (le village) (2008); municipal camping, 30 pesos

• Posadas (2008)

• Puerto Madryn (2008&2010)

• Rada Tilly (2008); municipal camping, 20 pesos

• Resistencia (2008)

• Rio Gallegos (2008)

• Rio Grande (2008)

• Rufino (2008)

• Salta (2010)

• San Ignacio Mini (2008)

• San Martin de los Andes (2008); camping, 40 pesos

• San Rafael (2008-2009-2010); a friend's place

• Susques (2010) (3900m)

• Tafi del Valle (2008&2010)

• Ushuaia (2008); Rio Pipo camping, 46 pesos

• Villa la Angostura (2009); 80 pesos in the dorm at Hostel Italia. Friendly, comfortable and the fireplace is just great when it is cold outside.

• Yapeyu (2008) ; camping. You have to search it yourself as some locals will tell you there is none. Price=donation

• Zapala (2008)

PARAGUAY
(in 2008)

Rate:1$USD=3850 guaranìs

• Honenau

• San Bernardino ; Camping Brisas del Mediterraneo, 50 000 guaranis. Great camping place when out of season.

URUGUAY
(in 2008-2009-2010)

(*Everything is booked ahead for the high season 1st-31st of January and most of February, but not during Christmas which is celebrated at home with the family)

Rate: 1$CAD=19 pesos

• Colonia del Sacramento (2008-2009-2010); Hostel el Espanol, 306 pesos with shared bathroom. The price might have increased a bit but it is still a very friendly, comfortable and clean place.

• La Pedrera (2008-2009-2010); Camping. Nice village.

• La Paloma (2008-2009-2010); Camping/bungalow. Beaches north-east of town are great for castle building as it is flat and the tide is slow.

• Mercedes (2008-2009) ; Municipal camping. Closed off season.

• Punta del Diablo (2008) ; camping

CHILE

(in2008 and 2010)

Rate: 1$CAD=540 pesos

• Arica (2010)

• Castro on Isla Chiloe (2009, Nov)

• Futaleufu (2008)

• Puerto Ibanez (2008)

• Puyuhuapi (2008)

• San Pedro de Atacama (2010)

• Villarica (2009, Nov)

EUROPE

(in 2009)

Rate:1$CAD=0.59€

Rate:1$CAD=0.54£

Rate:1$CAD=4.37 kunas (Croatia)

Rate:1$CAD=163.6 florints (Hungary)

Rate:1$CAD=2.53 lei (Romania)

Rate:1$CAD=1.15 leva (Bulgaria)

Listed according to the route we took, not in alphabetical order.

• BELGIUM

  • Deinze; At a friend’s place

• ENGLAND

  • Londres; At a friend’s place

• FRANCE

  • St-Thiébault

  • Lyon; At friends' places

  • Ciotat; camping

  • St-Laurent-du-val; camping

• ITALY

  • Trieste; Youth Hostel, 44€ (the cheapest in town for a room for 2)

• HUNGARY

  • Siofok

• ROMANIA

  • Arad; If you can, go through another town.

  • Bucarest

• BUKGARIA

  • Varna; Nice place, cheap restaurants, local tourism.

TURKEY

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=1.33 lire

• Amasya

• Erzurum

• Istanbul ; It’s nice but everything got expensive in Turkey, sometimes more than in Europe.

• Safranbolu ; Beware of tics in the cheapest beds!

IRAN (Prices increase throughout the country around March every year)

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=8100 riels

• Bam ; Akbar Tourist Guest House. Probably the only place to stay. 10$USD/pers.

• Esfahan

• Maku

• Qazvin

• Tabriz

• Téhéran ; Hotel Khayyam, tel: 021 3311 3757. Manager very friendly. 25$USD+

• Toudeshk ; Village in the desert, nice experience. You can live and eat at Mohammad’s. Call him ahead at 0913 916 5752 or 0913 365 4420. Around 15USD$

• Yazd

PAKISTAN (***Be sure to know about the political situation before going***)

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=62.42 rupees

• Dalbandin

• Lahore ; There is a hotel about 2 minutes from the Pakistan/India border surrounded by greenery. By staying there you can also easily go to the border closing ceremony.

• Multan

• Quetta ; Bloomstar Hotel. 1500 rupees.

• Sukkur

INDIA

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=40.87rupee

• Amritsar

• Dehra Dun

• Keylong (3200m)

• Lamayuru (3500m)

• Leh (3500m)

• McLeodganj ; Him View Hotel, Jogibara road. Clean, nice, Tibetan decorations, TV with cable, attached bathroom at a good price (try to bargain the price if you stay here for a few days. 350 rupees (and+++)

• Pang (4500m)

• Vashisht

NEPAL

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=66.14 rupees

• Bandipur

• Butwal

• Kathmandu

• Mahendranagar ; Opera Hotel. Good restaurant. 600 rupees.

• Pokhara

THAILAND

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=30 baht

• Bangkok ; Sri Ayuttaya Guest House. Nice, clean, often full during the high season, prices vary with the season and if you take air-con/attached bathroom. Parking in front of their restaurant with someone up all night. Clam sector. 400+ baht

• Chiang Mai

• Chiang Khong

• Khao Lak

• Ko Lanta

• Ko Phangan ; Jungle Hut Bungalows & Hotel (tel.: 077 349 088). Nice and calm. Lots of greenery and access to the beach. 200 baht (and+).

• Mae Siriang

• Mae Sot

• Nakhon Ratchasima

• Sukhothai

LAOS

(in 2009)

Rate:1$CAD=7407 kips

• Luang Namtha

• Nong Kiew

• Paksé

• Phonsavan

• Sam Neua

• Savannakhet

• Vangvieng

• Vientiane

CAMBODIA

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=3800 riels

• Battambang

• Phnom Penh

• Siem Reap ; Red Lodge. Calm, clean, simple. Breakfast included, free bicycle rental. 7$USD

MALAYSIA

(in 2009)

Rate: 1$CAD=3.13 ringgit

• Georgetown, Penang : New Banana. A little noisy, very simple but safe parking. 50 ringgit. There is also the Old Penang Guesthouse on Love Lane, nicer, same price with breakfast included but the parking is in front of the place outside…

• Kuala Lumpur; 57.14 ringgits at Heritage Station Hotel. Private bathroom, air conditioning, quiet. Weekly and monthly rates. http://www.heritagehotelmalaysia.com/accommodation.php We parked the motorcycle in front of the Hotel entrance and locked it to a pole. Practical because you can take the city train from here and there are also two restaurants, with one that is opened every day.

• Tanah Rata

SINGAPORE

(in 2009)

• At a friend's place